
I can't wait to get to this one! I'm not sure when, but, don't worry, I'll get to it. It's in the queue... ;)
"Yes, Virginia, there is sewing after the wedding dress."
I can't wait to get to this one! I'm not sure when, but, don't worry, I'll get to it. It's in the queue... ;)
The shirt pattern was one of Simplicity's "Project Runway" series. Truthfully, I was not impressed, although it's hard to separate out the details of the pattern from the fact that the fabric was stiff and a bit difficult to work with (maybe it was all that glitter?) and the fact that I was working with a newbie seamstress...
The shorts were also a learning experience for me - learning about junior fashion, that is! The pattern produced elastic waist shorts that sit at your natural waist. Apparently 11-year-olds don't wear shorts at their waists these days. They wear them at their hips - below the belly button!
Tiffany just pushed them down to the place she wanted and said that they were fine, but I felt that having the crotch fall somewhere around her knees did now show off our collective sewing talents to their best advantage. So, I trimmed several inches from the waist and redid the casing around hip level, to produce something that we could both live with.
Finally, a quick catch-up on Ana and Juana. It was supposed to be a super exciting weekend as we went to Sears to purchase sewing machines. Unfortunately, Sears was out of stock of the machine that they wanted. They ordered them and the machines are supposed to be in on Wednesday, but it was disappointing to leave the store empty-handed.
Our sewing, however, went well. We started on their dresses and made the darts (front and back) and installed the zippers! Here is a shot of Juana showing off her first zipper and the flattering fit of the back:
We had a brief discussion of how my Spanish has improved over the last couple of months and I made a joke about how, if I ever went to Mexico, I could talk to people - about sewing! I imagined a conversation going something like this:
Me: Hi, my name is Gwen.
Person on the Street (POTS): Hi, my name is ...
Me: How are you?
POTS: Fine, thank you.
Me: You have lovely darts and I like your hem.
POTS: ?!?!? La gringa es loco!!!
Yeah, that's A LOT of sock creatures... ;)
You should have seen the look on my husband's face over dinner that night when I casually mentioned that I had ordered 20 pounds of stuffing...
So, how about you? Have you ever made a really dumb purchase? If so, I'd love to hear about it... :)
(I may have felt a touch foolish after buying the Asian "pez dispenser" fabric in an Asian booth, when I discovered that it is Alexander Henry fabric!)
I really enjoyed the class. Diane pointed out some obvious things that most people tend to overlook, such as the fact that we get good at the things that we do a lot! So if we want to be good at sketching...
She gave us some fun exercises to practice using our eyes and trusting our hands.
She explained how to use light and dark shading to give the illusion of depth (see my ruffle below).
And we spent much of our time with tracing paper, tracing designs and design elements on existing illustrations that we liked, and then trying to recreate those images superimposed over a line drawing of a female figure.
Basically, she encouraged us to keep a portfolio of images that we like, trace and sketch them, combine them, manipulate them, etc. She made it all very do-able for me. :)
As for my second class - I have read in so many sewing blogs about the importance of keeping inspirational journals - plus, I want to make a kind of scrap book for the wedding dress - that I took a class called "Journals for the Fiber Artist" by Mary Fisher.
This one turned out to not be what I was expecting. It was more about experimenting with scraps of fabric, bits of ribbons and beads, tissue paper, water colors, etc. to create interesting, creative, textured and abstract visuals. Mary showed samples of her work and she is an incredibly creative and powerful visual artist.
However, truth be told, I'm more of a coloring-within-the-lines kind of person, and I'm okay with that. I did manage to put this cover on the small book that came in our materials kit:
But you can see my mistakes right away - I used symmetrical shapes, colors that match, recognizable images... This garnered the dreaded comment from the teacher, "Oh, that's pretty." Instant death in her world... ;)
Seriously, most of the women in the class had a lot of fun, and I don't suppose that a little bit of loosening up would kill me, but I was much more drawn to... the looms! The woven fabrics are visually gorgeous, have incredible textures, and the kind of systematic, mathematical relationships that appeal to me.
There were many loom vendors in attendance and I spent probably more than 30 minutes learning about and weaving on a small Harrisville loom. This was their 22 inch model (that's the largest width of fabric that it can produce) with four harnesses. I fell in love. I learned how to do a standard weave (your weft thread goes over and under each successive warp thread - like those potholders we used to make when we were kids) and a twill weave. Pressing the treadles in the right sequence, passing the shuttle back and forth, watching your fabric emerge in front of your eyes... It was all so cool!
My fate is sealed. I don't know when - certainly not too soon! - but someday I will weave. :)
Okay, my last two classes - more traditional sewing classes - were with Cynthia Guffey. One was on seam treatments and the other was on drafting lining patterns for your garments.
I really enjoy Cynthia's classes. She is incredibly skilled, interesting and entertaining. She showed multiple exterior seam treatments, described lots of tips for modifying a garment pattern to produce a corresponding lining pattern, and demonstrated her hemming approach (3 hems!) to help support bulkier fabrics (such as hand wovens).
Of all of the things that I learned, perhaps the most interesting was this simple yet significant idea that I have somehow missed during my years (okay, just 5 of them, but still...) of sewing - apparently you are supposed to sew with the grain of the fabric.
In other words, every time I pin in a zipper and carefully line up the edges along the top of the fabric, and then sew down one edge of the zipper, pivot at the bottom, and finish by sewing up the other edge, guess why the top edges of the fabric don't line up anymore? It's because on one of those two long rows of stitches (either the down pass or the up pass), I was sewing against the grain of the fabric and that side stretched!
And that's why one side of my collar lines up so nicely, but not the other. And ditto for hems. According to Cynthia, instead of stitching in long continuous seams, I should break up single continuous seams into sections and stitch them separately, changing direction as needed so that that I am always stitching with the grain. Her rule of thumb for stitching with the grain is "high to low and wide to narrow".
So, have you guys heard of this? Do you do it? What do you think?
In summary, it was a great three days and I'm exhausted and can't believe I have to get up early and go to work tomorrow! Yikes!
This seems to be an approach that will work best when done with a friend to help in taking all the measurements, etc. Luckily, my friend Susan is interested in trying this too! :)
I have had this grey, bottom weight fabric, with just a touch of lycra, in my stash for ages - it should be perfect for a pair of comfortable, casual, yet dressier-than-jeans pair of pants.
So, I have the fabric, I have the instructions to make a pattern and I have a friend to tackle this project with me! Now all I need is the nerve...
Don't worry, I'll get to it. It's in the queue... ;)
They are happy and excited about this project and already mentally anticipating their next project - t-shirts for their boyfriends! Unfortunately, I cannot go next Sunday, so that will be a delay to our progress. On the other hand, there is a chance that they might buy machines during the upcoming holiday weekend, if Sears has a nice sale. Our lessons would go a lot faster if we had two machines.
First things first: I love this dress! There are several things wrong with it (which I will get to in a minute), but I still love it. It makes me feel pretty. It makes me want to sashay and swirl and pivot and twirl everywhere I go! :)
Okay, now for the dissection... My first mistake was selecting a print that has a distinct and obvious appropriate orientation. After this experience, it seems to me that full circle skirts in general are not well suited to this type of print - the print is oriented correctly at the front and back centers, but flipped 90 degrees at the side seams.
More significantly, the fabric was supposed to be cut on the bias for the bodice (in view B). I chose to ignore those directions and cut the bodice pieces along the grain line, so that the print would be oriented correctly. There is a small ripple effect along the neckline, and I think this is the price that I am paying for that decision.
Other issues arose. For one thing, I actually ran out of fabric! This has NEVER happened to me before (I usually buy more fabric than I need). I think that part of the problem was that I changed my mind about what view to make quite recently (and view B needed more fabric than view A).
Also contributing to the not enough fabric problem: the width of this particular piece of fabric was a couple inches shy of the number cited on the pattern envelope - one of those 42 inches versus 45 inches things. Normally this doesn't cause me any problems, but with a full circle skirt pattern... I needed those extra inches of width! My solution: I opened the fabric out completely and cut the front in two pieces and added a center seam. Not ideal...
Unfortunately, because the project had been sitting in my queue for so long, the store was out of that fabric. Thus, I made the sash out of a different fabric (solid pink). In the end, I like it just as much, if not better, that way.
Another issue - the size I cut turned out to be too big and I had to do some pretty significant modifications to get the bodice to fit. While I am getting better at this, the straps are still sitting a bit too far out on my shoulders and the v-neck takes QUITE a plunge! I should have done a quick muslin.
Two things worth noting about the pattern. First, it was the typical cheap-looking (in my opinion) sash pattern that only had you cut one layer of fabric for each side. I doubled it and stitched the 2 layers together so that no seams show on my sash. I also interfaced it, because I wanted my sash to have a bit of body. I wanted the bow to stand up and hold its shape, not just flop down. I think I was successful!
Second, for some odd reason, the instructions for view B did NOT have you use the bodice lining to hide the waist seam and two zipper side seams. Instead, the instructions had you stitch the bodice and bodice lining together along all open edges and then treat the two layers of fabric as one when attaching the skirt and zipper... But the instructions for view A were the standard instructions that have you hold the lining separate while attaching the skirt and inserting the zipper, and then fold the lining back inside to cover those raw edges. This really surprised me. Does anyone know - is there a good reason for the difference?
So, as you can see, there are any numbers of issues with this dress.
"But I still love it!", she declares, pivoting on one heel and sashaying out of the room, with her beautiful, full skirt flowing and swirling around her in graceful pink waves.
They even provide ratios for how they would like the items distributed across different sizes and access on different sides of the body!
So, I think I am going to start by making shorts from one of their patterns. They should be relatively quick and easy to make. I'll show you my efforts and let you know if I pass the quality control check!
After they finished their skirts, I gave each of them a "congratulations gift" of some of the basic sewing tools: a pair of scissors, pins and a magnetic pin cushion, hand needles, seam ripper, tape measure, seam gauge and tailor's chalk. I announced that they were now officially seamstresses; but they disagreed and said that they would be seamstresses after our next two planned projects.
Our plans, by the way, are to make a dress with a zipper and then a blouse with a collar, buttons and buttonholes - using commercial patterns that include instructions in Spanish as well as in English (Simplicity, New Look and/or Burda). After that, I am hoping that they will have enough of the basic skills that I can set them loose on the sewing world! ;)
Every week there is more chatter during our sewing time. They are more and more willing to try to use some English words and our ability to communicate is steadily growing. I made 2 jokes today - one planned and one off-the-cuff - both of which got a laugh.
The off-the-cuff one happened when Ana asked me where my husband was that afternoon. I replied (all in broken Spanish) "at home" and then followed up with "I hope!". That brought about the knowing exchange of womanly grins that often arise during discussions of men... ;)
The planned one is a bit more complicated. I made a disparaging comment about my Spanish and then said that "I know three words." (This is all in Spanish.) I then repeated the sentence, while counting on my fingers and pretended to discover that the sentence had FOUR words in it, so I modified the sentence to say "I know four words." Then I pretended to count again and realize that I had just added another known word (the word for "four") and so I modified it again to say "I know five words." Of course, more exaggerated pretend counting to determine that that made six words I knew... I let it trail off and they both realized that I was stuck in an infinite loop and burst out laughing. :)
Why? Who knows... I find it very difficult to throw away any pieces of fabric that I love or pieces of fabric from a meaningful project (i.e., made for someone I love). I tell myself that there is enough left to make something... (True, if that "something" is a bikini for a Barbie doll!)
Maybe it's not my fault. Have the researchers on the human genome project said anything about a "pack rat" gene?
You may be thinking that the above picture doesn't look so bad. Well, as long as I'm confessing... When I opened my closet door to take a picture of my "scrap stash" I was so embarrassed that I cleaned it out first! Here are the rest of my scraps:
And this fabric:
Among other things, he is... (wait for it...) ...a musician! ;)
Here is a semi-recent school picture, in which he is wearing one of the Hawaiian shirts that I made for him:
I'll probably end up sewing his brother's shirt first, just because that pattern is so much quicker and easier, but, don't worry, I'll get to this one. It's in the queue... ;)
I was able to take my work laptop, with an "aircard", so we had an internet connection to help with communication. It did help, but what helped even more is that Ana is becoming more willing to try out her little bit of English with me. (As much as I've mangled the Spanish language, I can't imagine that she is worried about looking bad. I've got that market cornered!)
For all the course corrections that this project has taken (take inches off the top, forget the elastic waistband, drop the ruffle, etc.), I think the skirts are turning out quite nicely and they are feeling pretty good about them! And they are already excited about our next project - dresses with zippers! (vestidos con cierres) Now, if I can just talk them into cotton!!! ;)
©2009 After the dress... | by TNB