Friday, October 17, 2008

Friday Confession


I have never done a full bust adjustment (FBA) or an SBA.
I have never rotated a dart.
I have never fixed a case of gaposis.
I have never adjusted for a short waist or a long waist, for a broad back or a narrow back or a round back or a sway back.

Bottom line: I don't know my way around standard fitting techniques.

Some of my "confessions" are really just for fun. This one, on the other hand, makes me feel a bit ashamed, like I don't deserve to think of myself as a "real" sewer. Of course, I quickly tell myself that no one was born knowing how to do these things, and anyone who knows now simply went through the process of learning already - which is certainly something that I can do too. :)

So, how about you? Are there certain standard fitting techniques that are basic staples in your sewing repertoire? How, when and why did you learn them? Any recommendations as to which ones I should tackle first? Which are most useful, easiest, etc.?

11 comments:

toni said...

Unfortunately, I am the same way. I need to learn more fitting techniques because my body is changing and I am not sure how to fit it. Just last night I had a few books pulled out to start studying!

Donna Hodgson said...

This is where PR has helped me the most. Before sewing a certain pattern, I will look up the reviews and see what THEY did to the pattern to get it to fit. I can usually find someone my size and then I do what they did. If they said they didn't have to do a FBA, then I don't do one and I end up with great results.

But, admittedly, I am not proficient with altering patterns. But look at how many gals review patterns and the one thing they say is "I didn't have to do any alterations, no FBA or anything and it fit right out of the envelope" and they will be a C/D cup. There ARE alot of patterns out there that will fit us without many alterations.
The trick is to find those!!!

Claire said...

Basically I haven't been sewing, but have rarely made fitting adjustments. Oops... So Gwen I join you.....

Lindsay T said...

Well, this is something I've just now started to pay attention to. I don't have to make major adjustments, like FBAs, but I do want to avoid gaposis and the other things that scream poor fitting job. So I'm thinking a lot more about pattern adjustments and fit these days. Nancy Zieman's Pattern Fitting with Confidence is one of the clearest books around on this subject.

Becky said...

Honestly, I don't have the first clue how to do those either. I wish I was better at fitting alterations, because most of my measurements tend to fall right between two pattern sizes (with my waist being even smaller). So my usual technique of fitting tops or skirts is to try and fit to my bust/hip size, and then try it on and see if I have to take things in for my waist or elsewhere. I haven't made many pants recently, but will have to make several pairs soon. So my fitting technique for that is going to be make a muslin and take it from there. :P I guess I'm much better at manipulating actual fabric than doing all that math!

SunnyQ said...

Gwen give yourself some credit! Didn't you do a short-waist adjustment on "The Dress"? :)

Lisa Laree said...

Sigh. My repertoire of pattern alterations has slowly increased over the years. Used to be, I could wear an 8 or 10 straight out of the envelope...but then, I was twentysomething. Four kids and twentysomething more years means only stretchy things fit out of the envelope...and even then, I have to work on the shoulders, because the size I'm using out of the envelope is no longer an 8 or 10.

Hm...I think you've inspired a post about the transition from out-of-the-envelope to queen of paper tape....

Vicki said...

Fitting is no fun, but then badly fitting clothes are no fun either. As you know I have spent a lot of time on this and must get back to it...sigh I don't have a big bust so have not needed to do an FBA, but really it doesn't look that hard. Just trial and error. Good luck:)

Caity said...

I'm just beginning to get confident with messing around with patterns!

I need to do a long waist adjustment on most tops/dresses, so that's not a problem for me now - but I really need to get comfortable with FBAs. (Fit for Real People is my bible!)

I must confess that I LOVE the patterns that already come with the different cup sizes - too easy!

mamafitz said...

i went to school for fashion design (i have an AA). i learned pattern drafting there, which has helped me understand how to add/subtract where i want for adjustments. after school i worked in the dressmaking dep't of a high end fabric shop, and there is where i learned lots of fitting techniques like a FBA, round shoulder adjustment, sway back, etc. that was 1990, and i was 20, so all the fitting stuff is second nature to me now.

Summerset said...

I have a standard set that I use when sewing for myself. I don't have to do FBA or SBA's, but I do know that I always need to shorten the sleeves, the overall length and the neck to waist length. For trousers, there is a whole list of alterations including the swayback one.

The best ones to tackle are those that are your own personal fit issues. As you sew things for yourself, you start to see a repetition of the alterations you make and can make them on the tissue before you cut and fit. Depending on the complexity of the garment, you may not have to do a muslin.