Friday, November 12, 2010

Friday Confession




I get confused when I am directed to grade seams to different lengths. I'm never quite clear which of the seams should be cut shorter - or if it even matters... I usually try to make sure that the outer-most seam allowance layer is the longest, so that it can hold in all the shorter lengths, but I'm not sure if that is right.

And I wonder whether or not the thickness of each layer matters - for example, the interfaced layer versus the non-interfaced layer - should one be trimmed shorter than the other?

How about you? Do you have a system for always doing this the same way? If so, how do you do it? Do you think it matters?

12 comments:

mamafitz said...

the seam that will be closet to the public side of the garment gets to be the longest. let's say you have a facing on a shirt front, the facing gets trimmed the shortest, the shirt the longest. if there is a lapel, i switch the grading at the break point.

i hope that makes sense.

Kristine said...

I guess I should be red-faced... I don't grade at all! I definitely trim the sa, but the same length. I'm too eager to get it done and wear it to worry about people inspecting my finished seams! If it presses nicely, I'm happy!

Angela said...

Hmm.. I don't grade my seam allowances too often, but my tailoring book says to kept the one closest to the exterior fabric wider. I'm not quite sure why though.

Summerset said...

Agree with Mamafitz, that's what I do when I grade, because that is how I learned to do it. I don't always grade every seam allowance, but when you've got thick and multiple layers it makes a big difference.

Becky said...

Haha, I was just doing some seam grading this afternoon! Though my "system", if you can call it such, usually depends on just how many layers we're talking and the construction that needs to get done. If I'm edgestitching the facing, I leave the layer closest to the garment the longest so it'll trap the other layers inside. If there's a thicker interfaced layer, like a collar, I'll trim that the smallest. Other than that, I pretty much do what mamafitz does.

Faye Lewis said...

I grade seam allowances when instructed to do so by the pattern's directions. I'm not sure if I do it correctly, but I remember reading (some where) that if I hold my shears slightly slanted while cutting - that this will automatically grade the seam. Or, (as I read somewhere else) if I use applique scissors to trim, they actually slightly grade the seam. Still not sure if I do it correctly.

Kelley said...

Ditto mamafitz.

CarlaF-in Atlanta said...

I wing it. That's worked for me but I'm sure there's a correct way to do.

Sharon said...

I grade my seam allowances just as mamafitz wrote - the seam that is closet to the public side is the longest. Sometimes I simply grade my seam allowances as Faye mentioned: by slanting my scissors slightly as I cut.

Sarah said...

The new format is nice! It's been a while since I've actually clicked over.
The only time I grade seams is to flat-fell them, and then the one that is the outside of the flat-fell gets the grading.

Tasia said...

I usually trim the interfaced side smaller than the non-interfaced side, to reduce bulk.
Other than that, I think mamafitz is right, even though I don't always think about it on my own work! I do remember learning to switch my trimming on tailored jackets where the lapel rolls over.

patsijean said...

I dislike the fiddly process of grading seams, but I do do it when necessary. I keep the seam next to the face fabric the longest to avoid an imprint when pressed.