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Before I start this week's confession, a quick correction to yesterday's post, thanks to Lindsay! So many commenters on last week's confession talked about pattern weights and rotary cutters in the same breath, that I assumed that they always went together. Wrong! Lindsay uses scissors with her pattern weights and reports that it works just fine! Thanks, Lindsay! :)
I use Palmer and Pletsch interfacing. I switched to this (from the stuff that I used to buy in Joann's) because it was so highly recommended on PR.
According to this article, there are four basic types of interfacing: nonwoven, woven, knit and weft-inserted. The type pictured is (as far as I can tell from reading the packaging) weft-inserted, which give more structure than a knit interfacing, but has more drape than a woven interfacing.
The confession part is that I use the same interfacing for everything that I sew. I don't swap out different weights depending on the garment and fabric that I'm using.
How about you? What type of interfacing do you use? Do you change weights and/or types depending on your project?
9 comments:
I don't either, but I should probably start making swatches and taking notes - I've noticed that the interfacing from my local fabric store has wrinkled/crumpled just about everytime I've used it. I did order a sample set from Fashion Sewing Supply, but haven't yet had a chance to make the samples. It seems to be very highly recommended so I'm hopeful to find it more reliable than my current supply.
i use fusible knit interfacing for just about everything (i don't know the brand). for underlining jackets, i use texture weft (i buy it from nancy erikson, i think she might call it something else). for jacket collars or other tailoring needs, i use armo-weft. otherwise, i use silk organza or muslin.
I use Sheerweft & Textureweft almost exclusively. If I'm doing the tailoring thing (which is hardly ever), I'll whack in a bit of armoweft.
For non tailored clothes, I use fusible knit on everything. I preshrink it in the basin or tub (I usually buy 5 yards or more when it's on sale). I find it works on almost everything. For tailoring, I use two weights of interfacing a la Judy Barlup NAYY (www.uniquetechniques.com). Usually I use a weft type or knit interfacing combo, depending on the fabric weight. That's the only time I test: when tailoring.
Cuffs and collars are usually a woven, medium stiff sew in, the rest of the time I usually use light weight iron on, because I don't like stiff garments. But then it depends on how I want the garment to hang/be structured, and I can achieve it all with stuff less them $9/yd. It took some research and understanding of the interfacing I wanted to use and how it all affects different materials.
I also use organza frequently too. I have a shirt I should be using it on (I'm not, I don't feel like hitting Wal-Mart) or other fabrics for when I need the drape, and if they have buttons, add used dryer sheets to the back of the hole in rectangles to the interfacing fabric to strengthen it.
Interfacing is one of these weird things that each individual does differently I've found. I have all kinds in all price ranges and I use what I feel works best for the garment, and most of the time will have several different types in one garment.
I do change types and weights of interfacings for different projects - and I always do a test swatch. I know I learn the HARD way about everything - I have had some real beauties of mistakes with hot irons and my directional dyslexia!
I do use different weights, but I don't know if you count that as different kinds... I try to get the fusible stuff, but some weights just aren't.
I will confess, I don't think I have heard of the weft stuff before... I just may not know the terms though.
I absolutely change interfacing for the proper project. I've got several different types and weights - knits, wovens, etc. I also like to use silk organza instead of a fusible and it has work beautifully. What I don't like is super cheap interfacing. Some of the Pellons don't work all that well for me. I intend to get some from Fashion Sewing Supply when my current collection of interfacings runs out.
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