Friday, November 6, 2009

Friday Confession



So, I have never tried tissue fitting.

How about you? Have you tried it? Do you like it? Why or why not? If you don't do tissue fitting, what method do you use to ensure the fit of a garment?

14 comments:

gwensews said...

I'm not successful with tissue fiting. I've seen a Palmer/Pletsch do it in person, fitting a pair of pair of pants on someone in tissue. Guess I'm too clumsy as I always manage to tear it.

I make flat pattern alterations. Then, a muslin. If I need further alterations, I transfer those to the flat pattern.

wendy said...

Never done one. When I'm going to fit something, I make it in muslin... just cut it out quick and baste it together. My take is that I use a rotary cutter, so it's not like cutting takes all that long for the muslin, and I think it would take as long *carefully* pinning together the tissue without ripping it as it does just to baste the muslin together.

Unknown said...

When I asked Susan Khalje about tissue fitting in class, she dismissed it immediately, and I agree. Tissue paper doesn't mimic the accurate drape & weight of the fabric, nor can it tell you how it feels to move/sit in a garment. Making a muslin is time well spent, or as Mastercard says, "priceless"!

AmeliaSews said...

I tried it once and found it frustrating. Every time I reached for the pins to baste it together it would rip.
I will usually make a muslin if I am really concerned with fit. I also mostly use patterns that I know don't need much alteration - the sloper for Ottobre Woman seems to be very similar to me - I usually can make minor adjustments.
I was having trouble with pants. I took the class on Pattern Review with Shannon Gifford and now have my own personal pattern that I use to make flat pattern alterations.

mamafitz said...

i've done it, but i don't like it. i certainly wouldn't use it as my only method. if i do, it's to get a quick feel for how the thing is going together, and then i'll make my adjustments and do a muslin.

Anonymous said...

I use a combination of tissue fitting, comparing to a basic fitting pattern or TNT pattern, and muslin making to fit patterns. For a pattern with pleats or drapes that don't easily translate to a "basic" pattern shape, tissue fitting can be very useful - especially for deciding what to alter before making a muslin. As my body has matured and my fabric choices have gotten more expensive, I find that I make more and more muslins and end up with fewer wadders.

Lois K

Zep said...

No, I don't do it. I'll tell you what I do during class.

When I have a lot of people in the cutting class and some people can't grasp the concept of sizing I hold the pattern up to their body to show them they really are the size I'm trying to get them to use. I teach to cut big and sew small the first time. There are so many different levels we can take our sewing to. It all depends on how much time you have and your patience levels to what extreme you will take your sewing from making and tracing the pattern to assure a good fit from the start - to making a muslin. I want a quick fix and can't take the time to do a lot what other people do - but I will teach how to do it. If it takes days or weeks to complete I don't enjoy it. This is why I don't sew quilts :) Would you call me a sewing junkie because I need the quick fix?
Enjoy your sewing moments this weekend!

Faye Lewis said...

I've thought about it, but I'm too afraid I'll tear the pattern.

CarlaF-in Atlanta said...

I don't tissue fit. When I first started sewing again, I really wanted to learn but I never got the hang of it. I do a muslin and adjust the fit on the muslin. That seems to work for me so I'm sticking with it.

Alison said...

I don't usually tissue fit. Mainly because I perspire and disintegrate the pattern! Also you can't tissue fit knits or swimwear. However I did recently tissue fit a pair of shorts on my DD. I didn't want to do a muslin for her & it was much quicker. But I don't think you can tissue fit yourself very well.

Uta said...

Never done, never (?) will. Honestly, all these fitting methods (tissue fitting, muslin...)were unknown to me before all this information on the internet. The way I watched my mother do it: measure carefully, use a pattern company whose fit you know, leave generous seam allowances, and try on in between sewing (e.g., the jacket shell before setting in sleeves). Not sure I'll ever become perfectionist (or patient) enough to try other methods. (Although it would certainly benefit my sewing!)

Summerset said...

No, don't like it for the many reasons stated above. It doesn't behave like fabric, tears easily and is not as easily done by yoursef. It is better just to make a muslin and fit as you sew.

goodworks1 said...

No, I don't tissue fit with P/P thoroughness, but I do often hold up various paper pattern pieces to judge whether or not I'm in the ballpark size-wise or if I'll need certain length alterations. It's also good for visualizing actual jacket and top pattern lengths. I almost always base how much I lower the bust point on a pattern by holding it up to my body....

Elle said...

I must be the only one that does.

I don't mind the process and I actually don't like making a muslin. It IS hard to fit yourself, so I use a dress form for my own or ask my mom.

I also have no problems hacking into my pattern and drawing all over it for fitting, so I'm sure it's why it doesn't bother me as a fitting method. If it's something I want to keep (like an old vintage one)or I have to manipulate it more then normal, I'll copy it onto news print and redo it. As mentioned, it's used with measuring the pattern and comparing it to my own measurements and/or my own slopers made to the body I'm using (I have some for me and my son).

As to methods, I largely use the methods by Pepin in the Modern pattern design book from the 40s, just in paper instead of muslin if I make my own, and methods to fix things like they do in the Vogue Sewing book (basic tailoring).

Generally, I tissue fit for the size of the garment. My son is the one that this happens to the most, because of his love of vintage shirts, and it's because I draft my own from pictures or from COPA and it's to make sure a)it fits like it's supposed to on him, ie. boxy and large and b)it's not so big he looks like he's wearing clothing 4 sizes too big. As to the way fabric handles and paper not being viable, I guess that I understand the textiles enough that I include this in my own head and don't really think "oh the paper isn't going to lay like this, so I can't do it." I do some flat pattern adjusting for that and take it into consideration while I do it. As to the tearing, if the pattern is getting torn on the seam from handling, or I'm using it roughly, I scotch tape the ends and seam lines for extra hold, and I don't pin them to the other pieces, but to a tight fitting shirt or leggings that take no more room up then my slip/camisole would anyway.